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^t^tUJ^GEH'S 



PFopoFtionate System 

Bl OF 




LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 

%? inp^rig^frt 

Shelf ..,\^_Ac.^ 

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



PROPORTIONATE SYSTEM 



OF 



COAT CUTTING 



BY 



Charles Hecklinger, 



NEW YORK. 

1883, 



-r 






•i 



Entered according to an Act of Congress in the year 1SS3 by 

Charles Hecklinger, 

In the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington, D. C. 



Printed by F. H. Adams, 54 & 56 Duane St., New York. 



PREFACE. 



The practise of the useful arts necessarily precedes their theory, for it 
alone can furnish reliable material whence princi23les may be deducted, and 
rules determined ; and there can never be a time when it shall cease to be the 
test to which all rules and theories must be subjected. 

This is pre-eminently true of cutting (one of the old useful arts), and it is, 
therefore, in vain to look for a book on the construction of clothing, which 
shall be altogether, or mainly, original ; all such books, resting on the experi- 
ence of the past, must recapitulate its practice, in greater or less degree, 
unless they be manuals of peculiar specialty, they miist partake somewhat of 
the nature of a compilation borrowed from many sources. 

I wish to acknowledge the ideas which I have borrowed ; and if I fail to 
do so in any instance, the omission is not intentional. In some cases the 
views of others are so incorporated with and modified by my own, that it is 
out of the question to preserve the distinction between them. 

In the body of the work I have given the most efficient sj'stem that I 
have yet met with for the jjurpose intended. I have also given what 
undoubtedly miist be considered, the most accurate tables of sizes yet given 
in any work of the kind. 

The course adopted in the following pages, in giving the method and its 
application to all garments, has been deliberately chosen for the convenience 
and advantage of the genex'al reader, who is not supposed to be an adajjt in 
the department treated of. To him the book is offered as a manual for guid- 
ance. I have tried to make everything clear by illustrations, where the eye 
often reads more at a glance than in many pages of print. And where scales 
and tables of proportionate measurements are required, I have not failed to 
give them. And, I here acknowledge my obligations to my sincere friend, Mr. 
R. J. Davis, foreman with Messrs. Brokaw Brothers, the celebrated retail 



clothing house in New York, for most important data in these, which he has 
gathered through many years of practical experience. To Mr. Crapo, of 
the house of Vogel it Co., Broadway, I owe mr^ch gratitude for assistance, 
which none but a practical man could have given, as regards sizes. I also 
owe thanks to Mr. C'lianiplain, formerly foreman of Browning X' Co., now of 
Philadelphia, for valnahle directions, leading me to follow certain lines of 
thought in the right direction. 

Complete and exhaustive as the work is, it cannot fail to be of incalcul- 
able value to those who are disposed to profit b}- it. The table of sizes by a 
proportionate standard, are, as far as I am aware, now for the tirst time made 
accessible to all. 

I have condensed and arranged a large amount of useful information on 
the practical part of ciitting, and offered much of what I believe to be sound 
and new to many, and much of which has never before been seen in print. 

Triisting that it will full}' meet the wants of the trade, the author now 
lays it hopefullj" before them. 






■i:-i ■■!. 









INTRODUCTION. 



If the reader will carefully consider what are the opinions of practical 
cutters, in regard to garment cutting, I think they can hardly avoid being 
drawn to the conclusion that it consists iu producing correct proportions and 
a right balance. 

Now, by proijortion is meant that corresponding relation of one part to 
another, or of the parts to the whole and by balance, such a size of lengths 
in every part as to make it suitable for the form. 

The knowledge of proportions which is desirable that we shoiild possess, 
for the successful advancement iu the science of cutting, consists in being 
familiar with the sizes that go to make i;p good forms. Of course, the larger 
the acquisition of such knowledge, the more easy and rajiid will lie our 
progress. And I may here also say, that a sound and thorough view of 
cutting is only to be gained by knowing these sizes and proportions, and 
without them none can ever make s\ich advance in oiir profession as can 
entitle him to form an independent opinion, or make him an authority in 
regard to anj- point in cutting. 

It may have occurred (and very naturally too), to many who have 
thought the matter over, whj- a proportionate garment will lit and look well 
on so many different forms. Those who have had the curiosity to investigate 
this, have found it a very difficult subject. Few have been interested in it. 
It is intelligible to fewer still, and none yet have given the subject the 
adequate treatment it deserves. 

It is my intention to give the resulting data from the study of this sub- 
ject in the following. I shall endeavor to give an intelligent understanding 
how this was arrived at : 

In the first place, I will state that the use of proportions in cutting con- 
tains as much science as any other which can be used. But, some may ask, 
" What is meant by scientific cutting?" We have heard this expression in 
various ways. W^e have read about it in different works. The subject is 



nothing else but the " application of e.rperience" or facts. " Everything 
which is proved true." 

Let us then, taking this topic, endeavor to make out why cutting bj- pro- 
portion is scientific, and therefore correct. 

It has been observed long ago, that a proportion for the average form 
re-occurs over and over again in other forms. Systems have been based on such, 
but lacked one essential point, which is, that they have not taken into consid- 
eration the difference in types of form. From the error in these results, others 
produced methods, adding the use of admeasurements. 

But, to show more closelj- the nature of proportions, and that it is 
derived from jjast e?:perience and, therefore, scientific, we will take an 
example : 

We know a 36 pattern, regular in proportion, will fit an average 36 form. 
Any cutter by measuring the pattern, can tell you whether or no, it possesses 
this property without trying it on. But such men as Messrs. Noble, Cam- 
paign, the elder Madison, Ward, etc., knowing this fact, investigated this, and 
they each predicted that by using the lengths, as M'ell as the widths, in con- 
structing a pattin'u, we could eveutualh' gain a |iroportion suitable for every 
type of form. 

This experiment was made, we saw its application to everj- form, and we 
see it still in every day work. This may be considered a signal instance of 
scientific study ap]ilied to tailoring. It is most distinctly an " app)lication of 
e.rpenence" gained and applied. 

Our well known friend, Mr. Ryan, kept following this line of thought, and 
has been led to produce his " Human Proportion " in growth. A vast body 
of experience collected by incalculable labor and devotion. I pass over the 
process of this accumulation of data, minute and comprehensive knowledge 
of sizes gained. 

Now we take this experience and valuable information, and we apply it 
to changing forms as we meet them. How is it that experience of this sort, 
vast as it is, can guide us in our future labors ? We must add to this, that in 
order to describe scientific cutting, "that a step between experience and 
drafting," is technical skill. That the step l)etween former errors in the cal- 
culation of proportions as they should be used, is found in the observed law 
of uniformity'. The step from this uniformity to proportionate sizes, is the 
law of growth and proportion. 

The step then from past experince to new adaptations must be made in 
accordance with this observed uniformity of forms, in the order of their pro- 
portion. This uniformity has held good in the past. We have found it to 



hold good in most cases. Being combined with our experience of the past, 
it enables us to predict that it will hold good in the future, and we are 
enabled to regulate our methods iu accordance with this knowledge. 

This method then is scientific, because it causes us to apply past experi- 
ence to new forms. It consists of the observed uniformity in the law of 
growth. This law of growth gives us information surpassing our experi- 
ence, and it enables us to infer that we can produce a garment for persons 
we have never seen from the proportions of such as we have seen ; and the 
evidence of the truth of this depends on our knowing that the uniformity of 
the growth holds good. 



I want now to consider a part of proportion, and in this I shall confine 
myself solely to a few points of sizes, about which, it seems to me, that just 
now there is something to be said. In investigating any point pertaining to 
this part of our subject, it shoiild be our first endeavor to dismiss from our 
minds all such crude and hastily adopted notions as may tend to mislead us, 
and to make an efi'ort for the unprejudiced admission of any conclusions, 
which shall appear to be supported by exact proof, careful observations and 
sound argument, even should these be adverse to such opinions as individu- 
ally we may have formed or taken up, without careful examination, on the 
credit of others. 

The breast measure, which is the first size that W3 shall examine, is one 
taken by every cutter, but few know how to make a cori-ect use of it. This 
may appear to many as a strong assertion, yet I think after an intelligent ex- 
amination of the subject, there will scarcely be one who will not entertain my 
opinion about the question. 

In applying this measure on a pattern while drafting, we place 18 inches 
to the front for a 36 breast pattern, and add 2^ inches for seams, ease, and 
loss iu making. This is considered correct for this size. 

The same should occur in drafting a 44 or a 48 size breast, by placing 
one-half of breast and 2^ inches. Biit experience proves that a pattern cut 
to the size of 44 will be too large with 2J inches addition. 

In cases of smaller sizes, placing 2^ inches only to a 24 breast will pro- 
duce a pattern too small. 

Now a practical man, when drafting a 44 breast, adds only 2 inches be- 
cause he has foimd oiit by previous experience that it can only bear this al- 
lowance, and even then he may reduce it by cutting off here and there to 
make it what he considers just right. Now, we should have something more 



certain than this, and it shonld be so accurate as to insure its general accept- 
ance as a basis of drafting. 

A breast measure of 36 is considered a standard size. Taking 18 inches, 
with 2^ inches added, is accepted as just right to enable the pattern to meet 
on the centre of the breast. Let us now tind out how the same method will 
compare when nsed for a 44 breast, or with a breast-line of 22 with 2^ inches 
added. The problem consists in this : 

As 18:2|::22 : 

Or as 18 is to 2^, so is 22 to some other number. What is this number? 
It should be only 2 inches to harmonize with practical experience. But we 
tind, by mrdtiplying the two means, and dividing the product by the known 
extreme, we gain the unknown, and this is more than 2 inches, as follows : 

22 18J5.5 13J^ 

2i 54 ~ 

11 tV 

44 

55 

Or tlie problem rt'snlts in this : As 18:2^:122:3,1^ : 

If we now take the difference between Sj'ci and 2i, whicli is equal to ^ 
inch and yL the last fraction being so small that we can afford to dro]i it, 
we have ^ inch, which, taken from 22, leaves 21^. 

To show this still more clearly, make a line on the board measuring 22, 
till' full breast, and 2 inches the customary allowance, and again place along 
tills line from the same starting-iioint the reduced lu'east size as produced by 
our calciUation, which is 21^. Then add the regular amount, 2^ inches, and 
we shall see that we gain exactly the same point we did before, when we used 
the full size and reduced allowance. 

If we take any size olitained by the same process, we shall always gain 
the breast widths, which will correspond with our practical experience, and 
the addition then on every size of 2^ inches will l>e right on large or small 
sizes. 

The proof tliat these figures are correct is that they harmonize with our 
previous experience. This places the application of the breast measure on a 
sure basis. 

We know 2}^ inches are taken up in making up loss of seams and wadding 
in every coat, whether 36 or 48 ; therefore, this amount must be added also 
in every case. 

The application of the breast measure on the principle I have explained, 



gives to it a value ami an interest it never had before. Old cutters may have 
arrived at like results through an unsystematized knowledge, but the exjjlana- 
tion given -will, I trust, enal)le all to comprehend and to use it with results 
that will he altogether satisfactory. 

But there is another factor iu cutting jn'oportionately, which must be 
taken into aecourit, and this is the length. A great majority of systems of 
cutting are based on divisions of the breast measure, which represents only 
one size of the form, while it is most essential that both the width and 
length shoiild be accounted for. 

As there are birt few sizes where the length is in proportion to the width, 
it must be evident that the size alone of the width is insufficient by which to 
construct a system correct in its residts. 

In order, then, toprodiice a system of proportion which will produce this 
result, we must select some measi^re which will regulate both the lengths and 
widths, especially in the back portion of the coat. The measure which con- 
tains this essential xalxie is designated as the "lower shoulder" measure, 
and is taken from a point at centre of the back between the shoulders, over 
to top and past the front of arm, under the arm to the first point named. 
We find this measure (see our table of sizes A,) to give 25 inches to a 36 size 
breast. To give its application to a system of jjroportion, we take this 
slioulder measure, which is 25 inches, and halve it, which gives us 12^ inches, 
deduct from it ^ inch, and the remainder, 12 inches, represents the blade 
measure ; and as it is | of liG this woiild be the size to draft a 36 by. 

In order to show this same division and the a^jplication of the shoulder 
measrtre to other sizes, let us take a breast-measure of 44 inches. The 
shoulder for this size is 29 inches, one-half of which is 14^. Again, as in the 
former problem, deduct the one-half inch, and the remainder, 14 inches, gives 
us the proportionate front of size measure for a 44 breast. 

But as these 14 inches represent only | of a size of 42, we must use a 42 
size to draft the back sections of a 44 breast. 

Both the shoulder and the blade-measure corresjiond with a 42 size, and 
prove that certain j^iarts of a 44 breast must be drafted by a size less in quan- 
tity. 

In using our tables, which are quantities deducted from calculations, 
tested by experience, it must be borne in mind always, that the back lengths 
and widths are drafted bj^ the reduced sizes as given by the shoulder or blade 
measure. 

The size of breast only regulates the width of the breast line. The scale 
consists both of the front and back heights, marked on a neat instrument in 



10 



the form of a square, by which these heights are readily applied to the pat- 
tern or draft. 

The table marked B gives the sizes -which should be iised in drafting. 

The first row contains the size of breast ; the second the size the breast 
line should be drafted, and the third the scale which must be used, if neces- 
sary, to enlarge or reduce a pattern in the process of grading from one pat- 
tern to ether sizes. 

As practical experience teaches, that on very large and small sizes, the 
position and build of the figure varies, and that the relative length of front 
and back points are different, we have included in our calculation this factor. 

Accordingly to meet these disproportions we have regulated our scales, 
which accompanies this work, so that this is taken into account, and this 
discrepancy met. 

It will be found on examination, that by our scale, both the very smallest 
and extremely large sizes are produced with var3'ing lengths, suitable, how- 
ever, for the sizes intented, thus regulating both the front and back sections 
in harmony with the demands of the proportions of the figure. 

Our other proportions as given, are such as have been found in the usage 
of practical men, highly competent, to be correct, and to give the truest re- 
sult for practical sizes as can be attained, and I am confident they will greatly 
facilitate and simplify the work of producing correct patterns. 

In its appropriate place I also give practical or increased additions, re- 
quired over these quantities for patterns intended to be used for ready-made 
clothing. These sizes have been procured from men of great experience, and 
long practise in this line, men holding leading positions, and considered as 
first-class authorities. 







11 



T^^IBXjE .z^. 



PROPORTION OF SIZES. 



COMPRISING WIDTHS AND lENGTHS. 
Table of sizes which are clechicted from the widths and lengths, and 
which regiilate the right proportion of the balance of the garment in its 
length of front and back, and also regulate the size it is to be drafted : 



BEEAST. 

f 


LOWER SHOULDER. 


BLADE. 


30 


22 


\% 


31 


22^ 


lOf 


32 


23 


11 


33 


23i 


Hi 


34 


24 


Hi 


35 


24i 


iif 


36 


25 


12 


37 


25i 


12i 


38 


2(3 


m 


39 


26^ 


12f 


40 


27 


13 


41 


27i 


13i 


42 


28 


13i 


43 


28^ 


13f 


44 


29 


14 


45 


294 


14i 


46 


30 


14i 


47 


80^ 


14f 


48 


31 


15 


49 


3U 


15i 


50 


32 


15i 


51 


32i 


15f 


62 


33 


16 



12 



T^^BI^E 



Proportion of size of breast line with the size that au}- scale should lie 
to enlarge or reduce any pattern in grading or in taking off a diagram from 
any work : 



BEEAST. 


SIZE OF BREAST. 


SIZE OF SCALE. 


30 


lof 


31i 


31 


16 


m 


32 


16i 


33 


33 


16| 


33ii 


34 


m 


341 


35 


lU 


33i 


36 


18 


36 


37 


18f 


36a 


38 


m 


37i 


39 


m 


38J: 


40 


19f 


39 


41 


m 


393 


42 


204 


40* 


43 


21 


41i 


44 


21i 


42 


45 


21f 


42f 


46 


22i 


43i 


47 


22f 


44i 


48 


23^ 


45 


49 


23i 


45f 


50 


24 


46^ 


51 


24f 


m 


52 


24| 


48 



13 



T^fklBLE C. 



PROPORTION OF WIDTHS. 



WIDTHS OF SIZES FROM ^o TO 52 BREAST. 
The following table gives the widths necessary to draft all sizes from 
30 to 52 breast, comprising the proportionate breast-waist — the blade or 
front of arm, and the hip and drafting size : 



BBEAST. 


WAIST. 


BLADE. 


SIZE OF BB'sT. 


SIZE TO DRAFT 


HIP. 


30 


28 


lOi 


15f 


31* 


32 


31 


29 


lOf 


16 


32i 


33 


32 


30 


11 


Ifii 


33 


34 


38 


30i i 


Hi 


16f 


33f 


35 


34 


31 


11* 


17i 


34^ 


36 


35 


31^ 


111 


17* 


35i 


37 


36 


32 


12 


18 


36 


38 


37 


33 


12i 


18| 


36f 


39 


38 


34 


12* 


18^ 


37i 


40 


39 


35i 


12f 


19i 


38i 


41 


40 


37 


13 


19f 


39 


42 


41 


38i 


13i 


20i 


39f 


43 


42 


40 


13* 


20^ 


40i 


44 


43 


41i 


13f 


21 


4U 


44^ 


44 


43 


14 


21* 


42 


45 


45 


45 


14i 


21f 


42f 


45^ 


46 


46^ 


14* 


22i 


43i 


46^ 


47 


48 


14f 


22f 


44i 


47 


48 


49i 


15 


23i 


45 


49^ 


39 


51 


15i 


23^ 


45f 


51 


50 


52i 


15* 


24 


46i 


52^ 


51 


53 


15f 


241 


47i 


54 


52 


54 


16 


i 24f 


48 


55 



14 



PROPORTION OF LENGTHS. 

LENGTHS OF ALL SIZES FROM 32 TO 53. 
These are the lengths from 32 to 53 breast with the projjortionate 
length of the natural waist. The full length of waist. The sleeve length. 
The length of the sleeve is given as close as can be by the figures, but in 
grading the}' will deviate a trifle ; this length is under the arm to the root 
of thumb. Front and back height by small scale accompanying this work. 



BBEAST. 


NATURAL WAIST. 


FULL LE'GTH of WAIST 


SLEEVE. 


32 


15i 


17i 


17 


33 


16 


17^ 


17i 


34 


16i 


18i 


18 


35 


16f 


18i 


18^ 


36 


17 


19 


19 


37 


17i 


19i 


19i 


38 


vii 


19f 


20 


39 


18i- 


20 


201. 


40 


18i 


20i 


20^ 


41 


18| 


20f 


20f 


42 


19^ 


20^ 


21 


43 


19| 


21 


20f 


44 


191 


21i 


20^ 


45 


19f 


21i 


20i 


4(j 


20 


21§ 


19 


47 


20i 


21f 


19 


48 


20i 


22 


19 


49 


20| 


22^ 


19 


50 


20f 


22J 


19 


51 


20J 


22i 


19 


52 


20f 


22| 


19 


53 


20f 


22i 


19 



THE MODEL DRAFT. 



FIGUKE 4. 



"We commence by drafting a breast size of 3G inclies, and a correspond- 
ing size of 32 waist, with the jDroportiouate lengths. 

First draw line O K, and at right angles witli this P, at top. 

From as starting point, go down to (', the quantity called fur liy the 
scale number 3G marked hack heujlit, which in this case is ecpial to one- 
quarter of breast. 

From O A and ^ drawn lines across at right angles witli the V)ack line; 
from to A is the length of natural waist and to A" the full length. 

From O to i^is the same as to C. 

From 6' to 7' is one-half of breast, IS inches. 

From jT to Z is 2^ inches. 

Now measure the distance C to F, which in this case is 9 inches. This 
is one-quarter of 3(> ; now take | of the breast which is 12 inches and place 
it from G to G. 

As in different sizes the back portion of the coat will be smaller, and not 
in the same proportion to the whole breast measure, I must here caution the 
reader not to forget to always first measure this very essential width from 6' 
to F, as this regulates the front of arm ; whatever it may be, reduce it to a 
breast size, it being one-quarter of this size, and then whatever breast it 
makes, of this take two-thirds for the point G. 

Draw a line from i'^down to iVat right angles with line under arm, and 
also one from //upwards. 

Remember also as soon as point /'has l)een jiroduced, to retain and use 
the same breast proportion it gives for all other divisions in the back portions 
of the draft. 

From G to //is always one-half inch, from whicji point draw a line up- 
wards. 



17 



From to I'is \ of breast proportion, and from l^to 1 is ^ inch. 

From 1 up to 2 is | inch. Now curve neck from O to 2. Then draw the 
line from 6^ to 1. 

Point B is midway between and C, from which draw a line to 8, and 
where it touches the diagonal at S, draw one down to /. 

Kaise jjoiut 3 above S \ inch, and draw the line for back shoulder from 
3 to 2. 















^/1^^ 


. 




P 




3/y 


f 






U 




R 


*■ 1 




H 


1 / 


) 


u 


1 

T 


1 


1 

N 


\ 

6 




W 


'9 







7 E 

Now make the distance from 3 to 4 any amount desired, according to 

style, say 2 inches, and then draw the curve from 3 to 4, letting the last point 

be \ inch inside of the line. 

Let the width of the back at waist be 2 inches, or to style, and curve the 

seam from 4 past 5 to 6 and 7. 



18 



Draw the armliole from 4, but remaining on the vertical line, to F and G. 

Go below breast-line \ inch and touching line in front of arm, also toixch- 
ing point F. 

To get the pitch of front shoulder point, take the distance from C for- 
ward to TI, and place it from i^ forward on top line to P. 

From P draw a line to P, and measure down to i? J of tlie breast- 
measiire, 3 inches, and lialve it, which gives ZT. 

Then from B forward draw a line, and one also from f/backwards. 

From L draw a line down towards the bottom of the front. 

From i\^ to 9 is ^ of breast proportion, 2^ inches. 

Now let ITS turn to figure 5 and complete the draft by the following : 

We are drafting a breast-measure of 36, and corresponding waist of 32. 
Now the difference between 36 and 32 is 4 inches ; for every inch difference 
between the breast and waist we take \ of an inch, tliiis, in this case, making 
in all 1 inch. 

Tliis is, of course, changeable, as the size lietween the breast and waist is 
greater or less ; as in some cases nothing is taken out when the breast is 
equal to the waist. 

This one inch diflerence we place in front of N to Z, and draw the two 
lines from F through N to 10, and F through Z to 10. 

The next point is to get the suppression of the waist. To do this we 
first measure the width of the back A to 6, which will give ^\ inches, place 
this on to 9 and get the distance to Z, which probably will make it 3^. Then 
place this last on to N, and from there measiu-e back to M, which should be 
8 inches, or \ of tlie waist measure. This will make the whole distance back 
from the star marked G io A, just one-qixarter of the waist, equal 8 inches, 
of course leaving out the parts which are cut oiit at Z and iV^and J/^6. 

From 9 forward to 11^ is one-quarter of the waist, equal to 8 inches, and 
from ir forward to the front edge is 2 inches. 

Now cut out the back, and moving it at 5 closing at il/to get the length 
of side body. This should be \ inch longer than the back, then form the side- 
body line by adhering to the back to within one inch of 5, then begin to sep- 
arate, so that at 5 we have \ inch space, thence curving toward M and fin- 
ishing at 11. 

Be careful not to make this too round or flat between 5 and M, and in no 
case spring out on an ordinary lengthened waist beyond 11, which is, as can be 
seen, almost straight below M. 

From 11 curve slightly w.^ to line near 10. 

Place the back next on to the line at top and neck lines, in such a posi- 



20 



tiou that poiut 2 of the back will lay on to point /'*and *S'of the back at line D. 

While in place trace along the edge of shoulder, and then form the 
shoulder by drawing \ inch below the back at point 8 to 00, which is a little 
above the line to P. 

From P to K is \ of breast. Draw the neck from P to ./. Regulate 
the width of the shoulder by the back, and draw the armhole from 8 to the 
line in front and round it to F. 

Our next is to draw the breast-line. This is best done by starting direct- 
ly from point K, which is, as already stated, \ from poiut P. 

Starting then at K draw the front line past Z, touching V, from whence 
down it should be straight to 12. 

From /', as pivot, we sweep fi-om 11 at lower point of side-body to front, 
and where it crosses perpendicular line at 12 is the length of front. Now fin- 
ish the draft as per diagram. 




CHANGES FROM LAST DIAGRAM. 

Where it is desired to make an easy titting coat the deviations necessary 
are shown on diagram 6. 

In such cases the changes are that the distance from C to // is placed 
from 1 to P, instead of J^to /'. This, of course, makes the distance between 



21 



the points i inch larger. The line from G is also changed and drawn to 2 
at top, which makes the back slightly wider. 

In everything else the draft is finished as the regnlar one in the pre- 
ceding article. 

We would caution the cutter not to spring out the bottom of the side- 
body below iT/to 11, but let it be as nearly as can be straight down ; so also 
the spring at side from Z and N down. At F to 12 the line should be at 
right angles with line of waist. Only on very long waists, extended 3 inches 
or more below the w^aist line, can we add more spring. 

The top of the shoulder on the back may also be made wider, as shown 
on diagram 6. This will place the shoulder seam farther forward, and place 
the seam more nearly in the hollow at side of neck. The extra width added 
^vill fall off the fi'ont. Whatever width the back may be, point 2 must always 
be placed on to P, and in case of a back Uke on this diagi-am, it wiU reach 
below to 3, from where the shoulders of the front are then drawn. 




FAT MAN'S COAT. 



FIGUEE 7. 

The manuer of drafting coats are all similar, and therefore, as no changes 
occur in the general way of drafting, this one wonld need no extra explana- 
tion. 

Bnt as the proportions of large sizes are diflerent, and change as the 
sizes increase, and as it ninst be suitable for the breast, we may be pardoned if 
we give more additional explanations in regard to it, in order to prevent as 
much as possible any mistake. 

As we have already stated in our artich^ on proportion that the same 
divisions of the breast-measure as iised on a 3() breast, where the lengths are 
equal in proportion to the width, cannot lie applied on anj- other size, except 
in case the form is large, and of a shape like a 36. Therefore, we must use 
the size to draft by which is correct for this breast. 

The average form seldom requires any other change, and those in 
our table will be found to give a more satisfactory result by closely adhering 
to tliem. 

When drafting a large size, we draw the lines 0-J^ and 0-Ji^. 

Starting from O jDlace down the back scale, if drafting, for instance, a 44, 
we mark scale 4-4. Then draw breast-line to Z. Mark down the lengths of 
waist. 

From Cto i^is the same as to C, which will be equal to 10^ inches. 
Now 10^ inches is one-quarter of 42 breast-size. This must always be first 
figured out. 

Now to take ^ of 42, which is 14 inches, or equal to the blade measure, 
this place from C to G, then from G to // is ^ inch. 

Now as we have a back portion of the coat drafted by a proportion of 42 
breast, we must adhere to this in every local size back of front of arm. 
Therefore we take J of 42 and place it from O to J^. 

From J" to 1 is ^ inch. 

Draw a line from G to 1, and ci^iwe top of back, shoulder, and finish the 
back like the preceding. 



23 



As in such sizes the waist is equal to the breast, or larger. There will 
not be anything to be taken out between the front and side-body. 

From iV forward to 9 is ^ of 42 breast, and from 9 back to ^ is J of 




waist, which regulates what will be necessary to take out between the side- 
body and back. 

From 9 forward is the other ^ waist to W, and from W to the front 
line is 1^ inch, on large sizes. 

The distance C to H is placed forward from ]r to /* for the sho\ilder 



24 



point. By the proportion of tlie breast, and by tlie table of sizes, we get 
21^ inches ; for the distance on breast-line from C to T, and from T to Z is 
2^ inches. 

The balance of the draft is finished as explained in the preceding article. 

When the front shoulder line is drawn, measTire np fi'om Z to P, the dis- 
tance on the scale for the breast size 44, maxhedJ'/'ODf. height, which gives the 
height of point I\ Then from this jDointwhen established, mark down C^and 
H. Points 11 — f/and Ji being in point are division of the whole breast. 

Each division in front of arm represent snch of the total breast measure, 
and every division back of arm, those of what point i^ represents. 




THE FROCK SKIRT. 

FIGUKE 8. 

This skirt is drafted in the following manner : 

Lay the pattern down on a sheet of paper. Extend the line S-Ii on the 
forepart over towards F, then lay the side-body on this line from 7/ to F, 
both outside points resting on the line. 

Now to get the upper curved seam of the skirt, trace along the bottom 
of the side-body and front, from 4 past li and / to A and JV. 

At / curve the skirt J inch below the front. This is done to get a little 
ease over the knee, so that it may not cling too close over the knee in walk- 
ing. 

At right angles with line at waist ^-*S', draw one down to 5, also one for- 
ward from JV to If, distant from A , the width of lapel. 

From 4 at sidebody go out to F one-quarter inch. And by laying the 
straight-edge on to and i^draw a line to Y. 

From 4 curve past F to Y, going beyond F to D ^ inch for round over 
the seat. 

Apply the length of the back to Y and sweep from this last point to 5 
by the top of shoulder. 

Flatten the centre of the skirt some, and be careful to have the front 
from If to 7 square with line JV-If. 

Another point which should be noted is that the top of the skirt be at 
right angles with the front line from JV to button at waist. If this is not so 
drawn, it may be liable to button badly, and to cause it to hang unevenly at 
bottom, or show one point beyond the other, and the waist-seam may not lay 
over one another. 

THE DEESS COAT SKIET. 

This is drawn in the same manner as a frock in the back portion, but 
from /we begin to drop the strap, till at front P, it will be below the fore- 
part one inch. 

As the front from *? to J. is cut away to some extent in a dress coat, it is 



26 



evident the length of the strap is cut jnst far enough forward to reach the 
widtli of the front. 

The strap is made | of the width of top from /* to U. 

The distance from Y to C is one inch more than \ of hip and the out- 
lines drawn like the diagram. 

The width at bottom is subject to style and fashion. The size we give is 
an average ; some seasons it may be required narrower and others again wider. 






§ 



. Ws . 



THE CUT-AWAY SKIRTS. 



Let US first illustrate liow to drcaft the skirt to the back. Figure 9. 

Draw a line on the edge of the paper, or cloth, then lay the pattern 
against it at top point O, but at D it must be 1^ inch from it. 

Now apply the full length down to the bottom, which produces point N. 

The hook at D is made f inch wide, from this a line is drawn nearly par- 
allel down the edge. A seam is also added above the dotted line nearer to D, 
so that the cloth can be turned in for the tack. 

From Rio draw a straight line, and add sufficient to make a plait. 
This last should never be less than one inch. 

The front skirt, as illustrated by figure 9, is drawn as follows : 

Lay the iiattern down on paper, and place a weight \ipon it to hold it 
fast in position. 

Extend the line on the front marked 0-L, over to D. This line is the 
second waist-line used when drafting the body-pattern. 

Now lay the side-body against this line from to D, so that point O 
and D both rest on line. While held thus, trace along it from D to 0- IT and 
the front S. It should follow the course of side-body at P, and from to IF 
the front. From 11^ forward begin to separate from the body-pattern till at S 
there is a space of \ inch. 

From the side-body at D go out \ inch, and then lay the square against 
J/, the natural waist line, and touching the \ point, and while in this position 
draw the line from D io F. 

Apply the length of back skirt from D to F, and curve fi-om D down, 
going over the lino \ inch at seat. 

Place the front now in a closing position at S, and draw the curve for 
the front suitable to style. 

The front of this diagram represents a single-breasted, four-button cut- 
away. 

From N', the centre of breast-line, one inch is placed forward for the front 
edge. By drawing this edge through Z a one Initton cut-away is produced, 
and bj' extending the edge from f-^to !J'and then cutting away, a four biitton 
cut-away is made. 



THE SACK COAT. 



FIGUEE 10. 

Draft this iu eyery way the same as a frock coat in the upper ^oarts as re 
gards sizes and points, namely : 

First draw line 0-E. 

From O io C is size marked on the back scale. 

From to A is the length of the waist aud to E the full length. 

Square the lines across. 

From 6^ to i^is the length on back scale. 

From (7 to (? is | of this latter size when reduced to breast size. 

G to //is \ inch. 

to i'is jr of size of back portion and to 1 an additional \ inch. Raise 
the neck at 2 aud draw curve. 

Draw the line from G io\ and raise above S to 3 aboitt one inch. 

B is midway between aud C, from wldch draw a line to B, and from S 
down draw one to 4. 

From ^ to 7 is J of breast ; from 7 draw a liue up. 

Make point 4 abox^t \\ inches above line at 5, then curve the back from 
4 to 5-6 and 7. 

Also curve the back seam \ inch at A. 

Draw also the arm hole from 4 through /'^and G to line up from II. 

Place the distance C H over from Y to P aud draw the line P io R 
and 20. 

From breast-line point 20 up to P is front scale. 

From P down to /? is J and U is midway between P and /?. 

From iV^to Z place the difference of waist and breast as already stated, 
and from iVto 9 is ^ breast as given by the back portion. 

From 9 back to centre at A should be \ of waist, less the distance N Z, 
and what is found is taken cut between G and M. 

In doing this, first measure A to G, the width of the back ; then lay this 
last on to 9 and measure to Z, then from N. to M. 



32 



Should this in some cases give too sharp a curve at M, lessen it by adding 
at M, and insert a large cut under the arm. 

From 9 forward to W is J of waist, and to Y is 1^ inch. 

Draw a line down from Faud one from IF, both at right angles with 
waist-line. 

To make the size of hip correct, measure the width of back 19 to 18, and 
then from the dotted line 20 to 26, and wherever this size brings it, it is the 
proper spring at side. Apply the back at shoulder and finish it. 

For a single breasted add one inch to the front, and shape it to any style 
desired. 

For a double breasted add one over breast centre line 2J to 3 inches 

We will again call particular attention to tlie size from 9 to A, so that no 
mistake may occur. 

If the distance when measured from back line to 6 is found to be 5^ inches 
say, lay this 5^ on to 9 and get point Z, which probably will be 7 inches. 
Then skip Z to i\^ and 7 inches on to iV and measure back to If, which should 
be made 8 inches on a 32 size on ^ of the waist. 

If no cut is put under the arm, take off the side-body at 4 about f of an 
inch, and draw a curve to nothing at 26 — like diagram. 









SACK OVERCOAT. 



FIGURE 11. 

The double breasted oversack, illustrated by figure 11, is drafted the 
same as any other sack coat. But, of course, it is only larger. If it is in- 
tended for a 36 breast, the measure taken over the vest, it must be drafted 
two sizes larger, or a 38. 

It is also evident that the measure taken over the coat will produce it 
correct in size without any increase. 

Care should be taken, that it is cut sufficientl}' ample to cover the hips. 
The addition at front over the centre the breast-line, should be an average of 
three inches, for lajD, and the button holes marked f of an inch from the front 
edge. 

In spacing the buttons, measure the distance from the front of the but- 
ton hole to the centre line of breast, and place the same distance over from 
the centre line back for the place where the buttons should be put. 

In drafting the sleeve for this coat, be carefiil to measure the size of 
arm-hole, and cut it by the size given. 



THE SINGLE-BREASTED OVERCOAT— FIGURE 12. 

This also has no change, peculiar to distinguish it from the under sack, 
except its size, which is two inches larger. This means, that all the widths 
of breast-waist and hip must be made so much larger and that the drafting 
size also is increased. 

The lengths are to be increased in proportion or to measure at hand. 

The lap in front for a fly need never be larger than two inches, and the 
buttons are placed one inch back of centre breast-line. 

The fly stitching line is marked about one-half inch back of centre line, 
and curved at the lower end, as shown on the diagram. 

For a long roll, mark the crease row for a collar as low as the second but- 
ton only — which produces a cirrved collar, sufficient to allow the front to 
roll, yet not too crooked to prevent it from buttoning up close at the neck, 
or for a short roll. 




Fig. 12. 



" \.'- 



\A'. 



IB 



THE SLEEVE. 



FIGUKE 13. 



Take the size of the armhole to draft the sleeve by ; and first start by 
drawing the line 0-^aud 0-Q. 

From to 10 is one-third of size. 

From to J^is one-half. 

From to i^ is one-fourth. 

Draw line £^ down to elboM', and line 10 to li. 

From i? up to IT is one-fourth, there draw a short line to 1 and L, now 
from point F io E draw a diagonal line and halve it, which gives point U. 

Measure this diagonal lino and take one-third of it from Z7 to J., and 
use A as pivot to sweep the top of sleeve head, from B io L and P. From 
B then curve it a little below to //, and starting fi'om 12 which is one-quar- 
ter inch above the line draw through D and merging into the curved sleeve 
top. 

The line D T in midway between line 10 and line F. 

Measure the length of sleeve from 10 to Q and draw a line over to J'. 

Go down from Y to IT one inch, and make the size at wrist to style or 
6 inches from ^ to Y. 

From // draw the back arm seam to \V. 

From P near D the dotted line is the centre of the sleeve, but we let the 
seam start from D and for the under sleeve, we go back from the straight line 
what we went forward, or the same as from the dotted line to D is to T. 
From T curve under sleeve past N to /. 

Measure under-sleeve from P io \ and this should bo exactly one-half 
of the arm-hole, while the upper part from i^ to //must be one-half and 
2 inches. 

Curve the inside seam any amount desired to taste and finish. 

Tlie manner which the dotted forepart lays, shows the way of putting the 
notch at the front, the line under the arm and the line 12 and B lay on each 
other, and point /> will be the notch. 



READY-MADE CLOTHING- 



For cutting ready-made clothing, the sizes we liave given so far are too 
small because the manner of both making and trimming these goods there is 
more lost. Therefore we have also given tables to show the increase iu 
widths, and we will here endeavor to show the additions required. 

On table E are given the regular breast sizes — the increased size re- 
quired iu width of breast and waist for fine work, and more ordinary or 
course work. 

But ill cutting patterns for either of these it must not be iinderstood 
that the heights or lengths increase in the same ratio. This should not be 
the case, but on fiue work, one size increase of scale will be amply sufficient, 
or two sizes for common work. 

It may hQ remembered, that the height scale does not correspond in all 
size of breast in the same ratio, therefore we have given the scale laid out 
ready for use. 

We have a scale prepared for ready-made, which we send with the 
book, both for custom and clothing. This scale is on boxwood, neatly en- 
graved and is a very attractive piece for the cutting board. 

Iu cutting stout sizes allow one-half inch on size of breast and ^ inch on 
waist, add to the blade \ inch, and shorten the height scale one size ; shorten 
the total length of waist and full length one size. The sleeves are shortened 
one size. 

On long sizes use the scale of height one size larger. Lengthen the back 
at waist also one size, but retain the same size of breast and waist. The 
sleeves are made one size longer. 

Overcoats of all kinds must be cut two sizes larger in every way than the 
undercoats. 

Dressing gowns and smoking jackets are cut two sizes larger. 



89 



T-i^IBHljIB 



READY-MADE COATS. 



DRAFT THE SIZES TO FOLLOWING TABLE. 
Make the size of breast and the waist aecordiug to increased numbers in 
second and third row for iiue or summer work, and by the sizes given in 
second tier for heavy winter or common clothing. For fine work the heights 
are made one size larger, and for common two sizes larger than for custom. 





FINE WORK. 




COMMON WORK. 


BREAST. 


SIZE. 


WAIST. 


BREAST. 


SIZE. 


WAIST. 


32 


33 


30 


32 


34 


32 


33 


34 


30^ 


33 


35 


32i 


84 


35 


31 


34 


36 


33 


35 


36 


321 


35 


37 


33J 


36 


37 


33 


36 


38 


35 


37 


38 


33^ 


37 


39 


35^ 


38 


39 


34 


38 


40 


36 


39 


40 


35^ 


39 


41 


37i 


40- 


41 


37 


40 


42 


39 


41 


42 


38J 


41 


43 


401 


42 


42i 


40 


42 


43i 


42 


43 


43 


41i 


43 


44 


43i 


44 


44 


43 


44 


44^ 


45 


45 


45 


45 


45 


45 


46 


46 


\&\ 


46 

1 


46 


46 


47 


47 


48 


1 

47 


47 


47 


48 


48 


49 


48 


48 


48 


49 


49 


50 


i 49 


49 


49 


50 



DRAFTING BY MEASURE. 

The measure is taken oyer the vest. 

First find the level of the waist, by placing the square across the waist 
as sho^\-n on figure 1, and dot a mark on top at (J and one at side at F. 

Then take the length of the back from socket bone to natural waist 
G — to D for fashionable length of waist, and full length wanted of skirt. 

Next, measure from the socket bone past in front of arm to side at F. 
This measiire, to be correct, should be let simply fall do^\^l about one inch 
in front of arm, and from there straight down to the hip. 

Now, take the little square, with tape attached, and place it under arm, 
not very tight, neither too slack, and measure back to the centre at B. 

Those who jirefer to take the shoulder measure can do so, but this 
measure must be taken very close, and used like we have exidaineil already 
in a former article. 

Next place the square under the arm, like shown on figure 2, and by it 
measure the height under the arm to U at hip, the level of the waist, and 
while in position, also the length of arm to P. 

The breast and waist give with these forms all the measiires we need. 

In drafting, see figure 4. We draw the back line and one at top. 

From to A we apply the length of back, and to E the full length. 

From A ^\^^ to Cis the height under the arm, then draw the lines. 

From (J to G is the blade measure and \ inch. 

From G to // is \ inch. 

Reduce the blade measure to a breast size, as per following example: 
Supposing the blade is 12 inches, and we add \ inch ; this makes it equal to | of 
a breast measure of 37^. "Well, then, all the divisions we now use for the 
back portion of the coat must be drafted by a 37^ size, and all reference to 
sizes now are this last breast. 

In the shoulder-measure, use it like explained in a former place. 

The distance fi-om Cto i^is one-quarter of the breast. 

Draw a line from i'^down to N. 

From to J" is \, and to 1 J inch from Y. 



41 



Draw from to 2. 

Also from G to 1. 

Raise back seam from 2 to o. 

Make tlie width of back at bottom to style. 

Midwav between 0-C is B, from where draw a. line to S. AYliere it 
crosses line mark one down to /. 

Now draw the scje and back. 

From i\"to 9 is one-inglitli. 

Turn to figure o and take the \ inch for every inch ditVi^reucc^ between 
tlao breast and waist, and place it from N to Z. 

Suppose we liavo a breast of 38 and a waist of 35. The diflcrence in 
this case would be 3 inches, therefore we take f inch. Then form line under 
arm from F, N io 10, and F, Z to 10. 

Now apply the measure of the waist. The draft should measure from 9 
to A, \ of the waist. 

To apply it, suppose we have \ of 35, or 8f. We first measure the width 
of back, which may be 2 inches, place the tape at 2 on to 9 and find how far 
it is to Z ; then skip to i\^and measure to J/^ just 8J. When this last reaches 
locate point J/. 

From 9 forward to IT is f of waist. 

From irto T^is 2 inches iu medium .sizes, and 1^ in larger ones. 

Take the distance from C to // and place it over from 1 to P, and draw 
a straight line up from breast line. 

Next applj" the front length from 9 up to I) (see figure 7) and draw a 
sweep. Then lay the back on to tliis sweep and touching P. 

Having fixed P, measirre down from P to Pi-, one sixth of the full breast. 
Measure and halve it to get ZT, and draw the lines. 

La_y the back so that point <S' will touch D, then draw the -shoulder and 
finish the scye. 

From Cto Tis one-half of the full breast and from 7" to L is 21 inclies, 
or 2 on large sizes. 

Now finish the draft as explained in the jDroportionate system. 

Sacks are drafted in the same way, and finish as per proportion in the 
skirts. 

When applying the plumb measure under the arm, by my measuring in- 
strument, to get the hip point, and from there (see Fig. 1, Point F,) back to 
6", at the small of waist, it must be applied from the straight line under the 
arm, liack to waist to get the supjiression between the side-body and the 
back. For some cases this may not harmonize with the one-quarter of waist 



42 



measure, because the person measured may he very hollow waist-ed iu (>n(! 
case, or very tull behind. Yet on the niajoritj' of cases tlje division of on(^- 
quarter of tlie waist will be correct and admirably suited to give the best re- 
sult. 

I niav remark that on sack coats when the side-seam require very much 
hollowing in, it is advisable to raise th(! ]i<iint of side-body one-quarter incli, 
tluis giving it more length, and obviating the risk of its drawing away from 
the neck. 

Any information desired by feachn's oF my book, or any ])oints which 
may appi^rr dim to thi^n, will be always gladly ex])lained by me, o]i ajiplica- 
tion. 

I will say in conclusion that I hop(i my readers will study the jn-opor- 
tionate system first, and then they can begin to use the measures, and they 
will find that the success they will have will be greater thaii they ihuxnl tt) 
hope. 



J' ~ ?' ,».' '^<- THE END ->-Si_J,.H 






LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



014 082 840 3 




